Aliwal North,

Jany 2nd, 1883.

My dear Mother,

Since I wrote to you I have had a holiday, which I spent in Basutoland, an account of which you will have seen in the Northern Post, under the name of "A Minister's Trip in Basutoland". Passages from my letters have been quoted in the most of the colonial papers. My visit got me into a controversy with certain correspondents of newspapers, who imagined I had charged them with untruthful representations of the country, but the storm mainly arose from their ascribing to me a letter in the N. Post which I did not write; and one of them apologised to me for the mistake he made. They have made themselves somewhat ridiculous, and I could have said stronger things about them than I have done, but I did not think it well to be as abusive as they.

The journey to Basutoland took rather more than a day and a half by post-cart - with change of horses every two or three hours. I came back again quite vigorous and sun-burnt. The expenses of my journey were paid by the proprietors of the Northern Post. The general effect of it has been to make me one of the best-known and popular men in the Colony. The Northern Post will show you that the Basuto question is the most important one in South Africa at present, and I hope my visit, and what I have said about the state of things there may contribute to a right settlement of affairs. It was the Secretary for Native Affairs who advised me to go there, and see things for myself.

Kate has given you a description of a two days' pic-nic which we had last week. The children enjoyed themselves very much. It was a new thing for Ellie to be in an ox-wagon. Kate has been before - once or twice - at school pic-nics. It is very pleasant to have the cloth spread under the shade of trees, or, as we had it the second day, under canvass, and sit around on the ground, or on chairs we took with us. On the first day we went down the country and encamped on the bank of the Orange River, which is now very deep and broad, and on the second we went up and put our tent on the banks of the Kraai[?] river, an affluent of the Orange River. One thing made it a little sorrowful. John had been with us just a year before at one of the places, with his gun and balls, and Ellie could remember too distinctly every place where he had sat down, and all that he had done the year before. Oh, we do miss the fine, bright boy; he is ever coming back to our thoughts.

Annie and Kate are in very good health. Kate goes to school to a friend of ours, an English lady, Mrs. Lobb, who is also teaching her, at extra hours, music and drawing. Mr. & Mrs. Lobb are in very good circumstances, but I got her persuaded to take the few scholars I had, as she wanted a little more to do than she had with only one boy to look after. She is very accomplished, and a great friend of Ellie's. And I may say that Ellie has never had in any place kinder friends than she has here. Kate has grown very much, and is improving in other respects. Annie is a curly-haired, bright little thing, with winning ways.

We have had splendid rains of late, but just a little too much during the last week or so. We had a sort of cyclone on Friday which did a great amount of damage. A storm of hail the other day did great damage to the gardens, and has almost spoiled our grapes.

We had a watch-night on the last night of the old year. The chapel was nearly full. As the children had gone to sleep Ellie left them, and went to the service.

Mr. Bradley, my colleague is having a holiday. The Jamestown people collected £18 among them, and gave it to him to help to defray his expenses.

This has been a very expensive year through affliction. For doctors bills & funeral expenses, &c I have paid more than £60. I have something from the newspaper or I could not do.

How is Phebe getting on ? I hope she is improving in health. I have had an interesting letter from Stephen, who seems to be doing well. He is in good health, though he has to work hard. His letters show that his ideas have enlarged since he went to Australia.

Did you see that Geo. Cheeseman of Spennymoor is dead? How many changes have taken place during my absence from home.

Mr. Gilmore is going to leave Shields for Preston in Lancashire. He has not got on well with the Shields folks I am told. I am sorry for Shields; the fates seem to have been against them.

Do you get the Primitive? I ordered it for you of Mr. Hurd, and sent pay for a year. You will see from the N. Post how matters are getting on here.

We are all in good health. The children are recovered from the Whooping Cough. We had a letter from Mr. & Mrs. Parker this last mail. They are all well.

Ellie and Kate, and Annie join me in love to you and Phebe, and to Mr & Mrs. Watson & family.

Your affte. Son
John

Aliwal North

April 5th. 1883

My dear Mother,

You will have seen it stated in the Primitive Methodist that I am appointed to, or rather I have accepted an invitation, to a station at Adelaide, South Australia. The manse is only a stone's throw from Mr. Parker's house, and is, Mrs. Parker informs Ellie, very nicely furnished. We shall leave the Cape by one of the Orient steamers in July. It will take us about 17 days to Adelaide. Ellie and Kate (that is, our little Kate) are very pleased at the prospect; and I shall have a very pleasant sphere of labour. We felt that we could not have settled in England after enjoying the bright, genial climate of these southern lands, and the free life of the colonies. Very few people who have been any length of time in South Africa care to live in England again.

As to what you enquired as to the reason of my leaving, you need been under no fear that the Committee wished me to leave. They would gladly have kept me as long as I would have stayed; but the loss of our two children unsettled us; and the Committee very kindly granted me liberty either to come to England or go to Australia. But I felt it to be my duty to go to Adelaide. Our people here have been very much distressed at the prospect of our leaving, and would have been glad if anything had turned up to prevent it. Our church is very prosperous, and both Ellie and myself are, I may say it without egotism, very popular in the town. Ellie has made some very dear friends. Mrs. Lobb, who teaches Kate, and Mrs. Levy, the Mayoress - a Jewess - are almost inseparable friends. Miss Martin, who is now living in England, is also a friend with whom she corresponds, and whom she will never forget. These are not only good sort of people, but intelligent and accomplished. As for myself, I am friendly with almost everybody in the town.

We have had our Pic Nic for the Scholars this week at Mr. Dowling's farm, a few miles from Aliwal. The children enjoyed themselves very much. Yesterday, there were amateur athletic sports on the Town Green, which we attended; for you must remember these are got up by and contested by respectable young men; and all the people in the town go to them. The contests are not for money; but prizes in the shape of cups, &c, given by various people. The running, jumping &c. are very good. You will see a report in the Northern Post. I intend to keep on the Editorship of the paper until I leave.

As to our money, you will receive the next quarter's after June, from the Missionary Committee After that I shall send it to you direct; and as soon as possible after I settle in Australia, probably before I leave here. You will hear from me again soon. I must close this to catch the post. You get the Primitive, I suppose, regularly.

Let me hear how you and Phebe are. I hope you are both well. You must try to get a change this summer. We are all going to Buyperdorp [Burgersdorp?] on Saturday, where we shall stay until Thursday next. Then in May we are all going to Jamestown for a visit.

With love to you & Phebe in which all join,
I am your afft. son,
John

P.S. Remember me to my Cousin John, Mrs. Watson, &c. We are all in very good health. JW

Cape Town
Carnarvon House

June 20th / 83

My dear Mother,

You will have learnt ere this from the Northern Post that we have left Aliwal. You will also have seen the account of the Farewell Meeting held the night before we left. The people almost overwhelmed me with kindness. The purse of £50 presented to me was contributed to by people of all churches; and at the meeting we had people of every class & church. The Rector of the parish, the Dutch Reformed Minister, and Dr. Kelly, of the Roman Catholic Church, were speakers, besides several of our own members. The addresses presented to me were beautifully engrossed by one of our members. I intend to have them framed. I did not imagine that I was held in such high estimation until I was leaving. Ellie was held in high esteem by all classes. She had also some warm personal friends, who were much distressed at her departure. We shall ever remember Aliwal with pleasant feelings. The natives likewise presented me with £6 as a token of their esteem.

We left Aliwal at 2 P.M on Saturday, the 9th of this month, by coach. The last with whom we shook hands were our friends Mr. and Mrs. Lobb, whose house is the last in the town, on the road by which we departed. We arrived at Jamestown at 8. 45 P. M., and after dinner at the hotel, wrapped Annie in a rug, and all went over to Mr. Kidwell's, who with Mr. Bradley had met us at the coach. Next morning we started early in the morning, before day-break. It was bitterly cold; and we had to travel 5 hours before we could get anything to eat or drink - not even a cup of coffee could be got. The children bore up very well, except when I took them out of the coach at a place where we changed horses. The air was so cold that the poor thing cried for some time. At length at Dordrecht we had a good breakfast, which made us quite comfortable; and we got on well until we reached Queenstown about 6 ½ in the evening. We had been driving all day in the coach, drawn by six horses, going at full trot the most of the way.

We met my successor Mr. Smith and his family at Queenstown, who were putting up at the same hotel. I went to the Wesleyan chapel, getting in just when the sermon was commencing. It is a splendid chapel. Next morning Mr. Smith & his wife and family accompanied us to the train, together with the Wesleyan Minister & some friends. It was like Paradise getting into a train again. Kate and Annie played in the carriage with their books and toys the most of the way. We had a good dinner in the middle of the day at one of the stations, and arrived at East London about 6 P. M. We put up at the Royal Hotel, where we had splendid fare and good lodgings.

On the Tuesday I got arranged for my luggage being shipped, and then on Wednesday afternoon, we put off from the Jetty in the Buffalo River to the R. M. S. Danube, which was lying in the roads. It is often very rough on the bar; but it was not amiss that day. The steam launch was crowded with people. Annie was all right until we got over the bar; but when she saw water on all sides, and we were going up & down in the little launch, she cried with terror, shouting "Water, Water". Kate, an old sailor, was all right. When we got alongside the steamer, we were hoisted on board by means of a basket, drawn up by a pulley. Ellie, Kate, and Annie went first. I went afterwards, with a native girl. It was a very safe and easy way of getting on board. As soon as Annie got into the big ship, and went down into the beautiful saloon she was all right again. I brought her up soon after and showed her the sea; but she had no fear, simply giving vent to her astonishment by saying "Lots of water!"

We sailed from East London about 4 ½ P. M, and had a fair passage to Port Elizabeth, which we reached at 6 next morning. There most of our passengers left us, some disembarking there, and others were transhipped to the Moor[?], the mail steamer for England. We left Port Elizabeth about 4 ½ P. M., and after that we had a miserable voyage. The wind was right against us, and we could only make very slow progress. Our vessel rolled dreadfully. Saturday night was a wretched time; Our vessel rolled and pitched, and the screw was coming out of the water every minute, making a tremendous noise. Ellie and I could scarcely get a wink of sleep, though the children slept as sound as tops. Sunday was much the same. Ellie could not go on deck for three days indeed; and I did not walk about very much. Our ship was, however, very dry, only taking in one sea, which came right down into the saloon upon our heads at breakfast, wetting us very much.

On Sunday evening, when we were nearing Cape Town, a fog came on, and the captain could not see his way to Table Bay. He kept making soundings; and it seemed at one time as if we would have to put out to sea, and beat about until next day. Fortunately, however, the mist lifted a little, and the captain got the lights of the harbour in sight. He found that he was on the right course. We went merrily into Table Bay, anchoring about 6 ½ P.M., and had our dinner in peace and quietness. Next day we steamed into the docks. Our voyage from Port Elizabeth ought only to have taken 36 hours; but we were 80 on the way. The Moor[?], which is a magnificent steamer, was behind us. She had had a rough passage also. There was no special danger. It was only tiresome and disagreeable. Happily we were, as usual, free from sea sickness. I was, indeed, slightly bilious the first evening; but Ellie is proof against any kind of a storm, so are our children. We are, in fact, splendid sailors.

We have very good lodgings here, where we shall have to stay until Saturday or Sunday. The Liguria, by which we go will not arrive until Friday, or Saturday from England. She is a large, splendid steamer. Our captain of the Danube was a very gentlemanly person, so were the other officers. In our Saloon, 1st class, there were only two passengers from Port Eliz. - two respectable gentlemen. The table was most excellent and varied. Everything was so beautifully cooked. The stewardess was very kind to the children, attending to them at their meals. Annie could balance herself wonderfully when the ship was rolling.

Cape Town is beautifully situated, and contains some splendid buildings. There is a fine library, something like the Lit. and Phil. in Newcastle, a Museum, and Botanic Gardens, near to where we are lodging. There are pleasant company at the table of our boarding house, several are Germans. One of them, Fraulein Haas, is a professional singer and musician.

We have been engaged to-day writing to our Aliwal friends. I recd. to-day the Northern Post containing an account of the Farewell meeting. One of the Cape Town papers had a paragraph this morning about my leaving, remarking on the very able manner in which I had conducted The Northern Post.

The voyage to Melbourne will take about 20 days, and then we shall have to return in a coasting vessel to Adelaide. It will be more than a month before we are settled in our house. But we are enjoying the change very much. I have no preaching - no responsibilities, I needed such a rest and change very much; and I feel that it is doing me a great deal of good. I trust I shall have success in my new sphere of labour.

I saw a cablegram yesterday morning, stating that 188 children had been crushed to death at an entertainment at Sunderland. I was very much shocked. I trust none of Cuthbert's children were there. I am anxiously awaiting particulars. I trust a letter of yours is now on the way to Australia. I like to hear from you, and about Phebe and yourself. The smallest particular about home is acceptable. Ellie and the children have been in bed for some time, so I must conclude. Remember us to Cousin John and family, to Cuthbert's widow & children. Our united love to Phebe and yourself, and our prayers for your spiritual and temporal prosperity.

I have confidence the Lord will be with us upon the mighty waters, and keep us in peace and safety.

Your ever affectionate son,
John