On Sea,

March 20th, 1879

My dear Mother,

We sailed out of the Docks yesterday morning at 10-15, Mr. & Mrs. McKechnie, Mr. Dickinson, Mr. Cutts, Mr. Clarke, & uncle Wm. Spoor, of whose kindness in London we cannot speak too highly, saw us off. The sail down the Thames and round the foreland of Kent was very pleasant.

Just before leaving the Dock a Baptist minister from Norfolk introduced us to his daughter, a young lady going out to Port Elizabeth, asking us to look after her, and soon after another young lady as we were going down the channel asked me to what Port we were going. She was going to Natal to her brother. She said three of their family had died of consumption, and that her brother could not live in England.

I also fell in with a young German, with whom I chatted a great deal, and we walked the deck together for some time last night. As he, however, could speak very little English and I was slow with German, it was difficult for us to get on at first, but after a while we did better. He is going to the Free Orange state, much further into the interior than we. This morning I spoke to another German lady, who is going with her daughter to Griqualand West, she also is going further inland than we are.

The company altogether is very respectable and pleasant. There is a family, consisting of the father & mother, and three or four children, with housekeeper & nurse going to the Transvaal. Kate struck up at once an acquaintance with them. Kate has also made friends with the stewardess, and even the stewardess of the second class. She is first rate for going from home, as she does not stand upon ceremony. John also is very good, only he growls hard at table, if a continual supply of what is going is not kept up. He likes to be upon deck, looking upon the sea.

We all slept soundly last night except Ellie, who was kept awake part of the night by the noise of the engines and the pounding of the screw. Kate went to her shelf early and slept without interruption until the morning; so did John & myself. While two or three ladies have been sick, we have felt not the slightest qualms. Of course we have not experienced any rough weather yet, so that we will not boast, but I have reason to think we will all prove to be good sailors.

If life at sea is anything like our present experience, our voyage will be very enjoyable. The saloon in which I am now writing, with Kate at my elbow, is a long, well-furnished apartment. Excellent provision is made for the inner man. This morning early we had handed in to us in our cabin, each a cup of good coffee, and then at 8 ½ o'clock, we had breakfast in the saloon, Tea or Coffee, Ham, Steak, or Chop, with fried or mashed potatoes, and a variety of other things are on the table. We lunch at one o'clock, which is equal to a good dinner; we then dine at 6 o'clock, abundant provision being made at that meal. The stewardess is very kind, has given us fresh cow's milk for John, a cow being kept in the ship, and gets Kate in beside her. She wanted Kate to sleep with her last night, but after she was undressed she would not stay with her.

I was up this morning about six o'clock, and looking out at the port hole there was nothing to be seen but the sea & sky, but the fresh blue waves looked most beautiful. We are bowling along this morning with a splendid breeze. The boat is a very steady-going one, and generally makes her passages very pleasantly. The cook told me this morning that he had been in her 18 months and had only been in one storm with her. I hope we shall be fortunate. We expect to get to Dartmouth this afternoon from which place you will get this letter. You will not receive another letter for several days after that, as there will be no means of sending one until we get to Madeira.

You will have got to your new home before you receive this, where I trust you & Annie will be comfortable, and I trust that with the advance of spring Annie will get better. Tell her not to think of looking after a place until she is perfectly restored. She has nothing to fret about, as if the Lord spare me I will look after you both. As for us we are likely to be very happy. I am sure we are in the way of providence, and we may therefore be sure the Lord will look after both us and those we have left behind.

Ellie and I were very much affected by the genuine kindness shown to us in North Shields on leaving. I pray that God may abundantly return it to our dear friends there, whom we will ever have in our heart. Let Mr. & Mrs. Lewins, Mr. & Mrs. Welford, Mr. & Mrs. Smith, Mr. & Mrs. Brown, & a host of others know how we are getting on, and give our love to all. I would like to hear how the church is doing, and especially my class. Tell Mr. Dodds to be sure and let me know. If he looks up to God he may do a good work among them.

Mr. Spoor presented my wife with a splendid album, which cost 13/6, and Mr. McKechnie has presented her with a large, handsome Bible, the best of its kind, requesting us to use it in family worship when we get to Aliwal. Every one has shown us the utmost kindness and confidence. Mr. McKechnie promised to write to you after we left, as I had very little time for doing so before leaving.

Remember us to Ellen. We hope she will be very happy in her new place. She would have been of great use just now in looking after the children. This writing is rather shaky as the screw is pounding away near to where I am writing.

With love & kisses to yourself & Annie, from us all.

I am your ever afft Son
John

On the Sea
Latitude 34-17 N
Long. 15-24 W

March 25 / 79

My dear Mother & Sister,

I closed my last just as we were entering Dartmouth, which we reached about 1-30. P.M. Thursday the 21st. The harbour is enclosed with hills on the slopes of which there are beautiful residences. In summer when the trees are in bloom it must be very lovely. Kate and I put off in a boat for the shore, and after walking about for an hour returned to the ship in time for dinner at 6 P.M. Ellie did not leave the ship. We left at 12 o'clock on Friday. As soon as we got fairly out to sea again, we felt the rolling of the vessel more than we had done, consequently several ladies became sick. Some of the port holes having been left open we shipped a sea which wetted the baggage and bed-clothes in some of the berths. Fortunately our port hole was closed. At night what with the strange noises of machinery and the dashing of the waves I got little sleep the first night and Ellie none at all. Awaking from a slumber about 4 o'clock it seemed to my unaccustomed ears as if we were in the midst of a gale and as if the waves were rushing over the vessel and now and then coming against the port hole. I thought the dreaded Bay of Biscay (into which we had just entered) was just giving us a taste of its quality. But on saying to one of the stewards that we had had a rough night, he said "not very, there is a fine breeze up".

Ellie and I had some conversation to-day with a Mr. and Mrs. Strand who are returning to S. Africa from a visit to England. They had lived 7 years in Aliwal North. They said it was a pretty place, with a fine climate, fruits are plentiful, and the people hospitable. There is boating on the Orange river, over which a new bridge into the Orange Free State is being built; it is also a capital place for fishing. There are three or four parties who will have to go through Aliwal to their homes, which is on the road to the Diamond Fields. We shall have to go by coach, I think, to Aliwal, as it would be probably be dearer to take a waggon for ourselves.

This evening (Saturday) although it was very cold I walked the deck until a late hour with a young German, watching the sky and waves which were ever and anon lit up by the phosphorescent gleams of animalcules, my thoughts meanwhile being of those dear ones at home and our many friends whom we were rapidly leaving behind. We made 280 miles to-day. While a great number of ladies & children are sick, Ellie and the children and I have never felt a qualm, except a slight biliousness I had on entering the Bay of Biscay.

Sunday broke calm and bright. The air which hitherto had been very cold became mild, while there was just enough of breeze & motion of the sea to give life to the scene. It seemed a strange Sunday to us, as there was no service, though we shall have one in the morning when we have passed Madeira. Every one seems to enjoy the day, however. Kate runs about everywhere and is thoroughly happy, but John is a little uneasy through teething and the discomfort of his circumstances. But just a while ago he was walking about hold[?] of the sail on deck, having got his eye upon a bun which a gentleman had laid onto the seat. The captain has just been swinging Kate & asking her where her tooth had gone too. He is very kind with the children. The night became cold & rather wet, and as the noises are fearful I did not sleep much though Ellie did, and Kate sleeps through every thing.

In the morning (Monday) as Ellie & John & I were on deck the ship gave a sudden lurch and a lot fell Ellie and John rolling off their seats to the railing of the vessel. They got picked up and were none the worse, except that Ellie got a few black bruises on her arms & legs. One young man got knocked off his legs by the wave. The weather is however fine with a good breeze, but there is a nasty swell which makes the vessel roll from side to side.

To-day (Tuesday), though the sun is shining brightly, there is a frightful roll of the vessel, every now and then we ship a sea, which comes splash over the deck. One has to hold on to things and dodge from pillar to post to keep our footing. Kate got a wetting & a fright this morning she was at a little distance from me on the other side of the vessel when a wave came suddenly over & drenched her. She cried for the first time since she left home. I took her from a sailor who had hold of her and another child, one under each arm, lest I trying to get down-stairs, I fell with her on deck. She was no worse however except for the drenching and fright. There is such a roll now that I have some difficulty in writing. We get into Madeira tonight, where I will post this letter to you. After we pass we are hoping the swell will cease, and we will move on more quietly. and yet we are favoured in being free from storms, and in the progress we are making. As this is not one of the swiftest vessels of the line it will take us about 24 days to reach the Cape from Dartmouth, the captain says. Both Ellie & I are looking quite ruddy, I think the voyage will do us good.

I am sorry to hear that Annie has been so poorly, but hope when you get settled down in your new lodgings that she will improve. My love to her and all friends, and also to yourself. Despatch letters & newspapers as soon as you can. You will probably not hear from us until we get to the Cape, though if I can drop you a line on the way I will. We are getting on very well. Have very pleasant company. Keep yourself happy.

I am dear Mother
Your Affnt, John
_______________________
"Sister" is Jane's daughter Phebe.

On Sea

April 9th, 1879

My dear Mother and Sister,

I concluded my last just before we reached Madeira. That day was a very distressing one, in fact the only one of that sort we have had since we left home. We were glad when we got under the lee of a small island called Porto Santo, for the rolling ceased then, and at about 10 ½ P.M. we anchored in the roadstead of Madeira. All we could see however was the outline of works running along the side of the harbour, and lights gleaming from the town. Soon after the ship's gun announced our arrival several boats came our from the shore to the ship - some containing P. O. functionaries (Portuguese), others laden with vegetables & all kind of fruit (Apples, Oranges, Bananas, Locusts etc.) for the ship, and others whose owners wanted to take us to the shore. It was amusing to hear the jabber of their Portuguese, with which was mingled an English word or two. I purchased a couple of chairs for use on the voyage.

We weighed anchor again after midnight, and started for the Cape. We had now very fine weather, hazy days and bright starlighted nights. Soon after we entered the tropic of Cancer the weather kept sharp. We passed the Canary islands and after there the Cape de Verde islands, some saw the lighthouse, but unfortunately it was during the night, so that we have not seen land since we left Madeira, and Ellie did not see it even then as she was in bed when we anchored there.

On Sunday, March 30th, in Lat 12° 16" N, and about 17 long W., we had service for the first time. Prayers were read in the morning by the Captain. It was a somewhat meagre affair, but after a fortnight's deprivation of religious Sundays, it was refreshing to me to join in worship of any kind. Three Sundays have now gone over without my doing anything in preaching or conducting worship and other three will probably pass before I have the opportunity of doing so again. I long to be at my work once more. You will wonder how we fill up our time. Well, eating thrice a day is a very important matter, and we are splendidly provided for in that respect, while the sea breezes supply us with a good appetite. Then there is reading (I have had a treat in reading the "Marquis of Lossie[?]"), studying Dutch, conversation, watching the sea-gulls, Mother Carey's chickens, Flying fish, and occasionally the Porpoises, tumbling somersaults in the water. Some have seen whales but I have not had the good fortune to do so. We have also had a Concert and occasional musical performances by the passengers. But it is sometimes very monotonous.

As we approached the Equator the heat became much greater and for two or three days it was very oppressive, especially for John, who bore it the worst. At nights it was very bad, as the Port Hole had sometimes to be closed to keep out the Sea. There was, however, always a good breeze on deck at nights, and I slept two nights on deck, one night with nothing but a Rug and a Quilt, but the next night the Steward took a mattress up and I slept well. You have no idea how strange it is for a time sleeping in one of those screw steamers. The noise of the engines & the screw, the dashing of the waves, and the rolling of the vessel, are all such new sounds. But we are now getting used to them. We adjust ourselves naturally to the motion of the vessel both when in bed and on deck during the day. It is also amusing to see how the children toddle about while the ship is rolling. I was watching to-day a little fellow only 17 months old walking and surprised to see how he rose and fell with the vessel. Kate can run anywhere, and even John can walk about with hold of things and keep his legs.

We celebrated Kate's birth-day in 8-14 N, and 15-39 W. Long. The steward caused a spiced loaf to be made in honour of the event. I don't know whether I told you that there is a children's table. They breakfast at 8, dine at 12-30, and have tea at 5 o'clock. Kate gets her hands filled with fruit after our dinner by the Steward, who is very kind to her. Ellie has got a woman from the 2nd class passengers to keep John during our meal-times, and for an hour or two in the afternoon. He has suffered a good deal from his teeth and the heat, but he is now getting to be more like himself again. As to Kate she runs about all day and sleeps without break right through the night. It has been also a great blessing that not one of us has had the least touch of sea-sickness. We are the only family, I believe, which has entirely escaped. It is evident we are good sailors. We had a thunder storm just before we got to the line which cooled the air. The thunder and lightning were violent for a time, and the rain poured down in torrents.

Since we got south of the Equator the heat has declined and now, though still in the tropics it is quite cold, especially at nights. We have the sun to the North of us now; the constellation of the Great Bear has disappeared from the heavens, and so has the Polar star. Orion is still to be seen, though getting further towards the west. We have found the Constellation of the "Southern Cross", and other stars constellations new to us shining over our heads at night. We have scarcely any twilight. At 6 o'clock the sun sets, and almost immediately it is night. But the moon is just now very brilliant. Last night it was nearly full, and rose most splendidly in the East, the banks of clouds beneath it resting on the waters, looked like land rising in terraces. It was an enchanting scene.

We expect to reach the Cape on Sunday. We are now about 1000 miles from it. We shall stop there two or three days. It will be pleasant to see the land again, but more pleasant still to have some news from the outside world. Here we have been for three weeks nearly without newspapers. Parliament may have dissolved, the Zulus may have destroyed part of our army, there may have been earthquakes and revolutions, and I don't know what, but we are as oblivious of all these things as if we were among the dead. I hope the news (which will, however, not be European news) will be good, and that there will be prospects of settled peace in our African Colonies. It would be a treat to have the Ministries[?], the Xtian World, and the Spectator, &c, coming every week.

Cape Town

April 14th [,1879]

By the good Providence of God we arrived here, at least into the Bay, last night (Easter Sunday). We were terribly rocked on Good Friday. That and the day on which we reached Madeira were the only really unpleasant days we have had; but although the rolling was worse on Good Friday we did not think so much of it, as we had got over our sea legs. We were only afraid however we might have to roll on in that way to the Cape, but during the night the swell subsided, and then on Easter Sunday we had a splendid day. At noon Table mountain, 60 or 70 miles away was sighted. After luncheon Ellie & Kate and I went on to the bridge of the ship The mountain gradually cleared to the view. We felt thankful that we were within sight of land at last and with peculiar feelings of interest upon the country in which probably many years of our life will be spent. We were just too late for getting into the docks; daylight faded away as we entered the bay where we cast anchor. At dinner, which was put off for an hour the captain announced that two of the troop ships had been wrecked, that Cap. Pearson was [??]lieved, and that there was a rising of the natives in Basutoland. This was the first news from the outside world we had had for two or three weeks.

This morning we steamed into the docks before breakfast. The view from the ship was unique, Table mountain rose grandly before us, and nestling under it, between it and the shore, sat Cape Town. The yellow Malays, with their red turbans, and the dark Hottentots, on the shore, showed that we had got to the country of the coloured man. We expect to stay here until Thursday or Friday, but as the mail leaves to-morrow, and I must have this posted to-day I must reserve for my next letter an account of what we shall see in and around Cape Town. We intend, if the weather clear up, going into the town this afternoon. I am thankful we have got so far safely, and on the whole very pleasantly, and I have confidence that the good hand which has guarded us so far will take care of us unto the end of our journey. The children are quite well. John, as I intimated before, has not been like himself the most of the journey, but the last two or three days he has been quite well and merry. Amid all his troubles, however, his appetite has never failed. He has always been ready for the meal-times. We are all indeed in splendid health and in good spirits. I don't expect we shall reach Aliwal for nearly a month. Eight weeks will be consumed with the voyage & journey. It is a long time to be doing nothing, but it will I believe do our health good.

I hope that you are both comfortable in your lodgings, and that Annie is improving in health. We often think of you & our other relations. As I have not convenience for writing comfortably now my friends must excuse letters until I reach my destination; but you will kindly inform them of any thing likely to interest them in my letters. Would you send the letters to Cuth, Phebe, and Stephen, Watsons[?] send my [our?] love,

We all join in kind remembrances to all our friends at Shields and in love and kisses to you & Annie.

Your affectionate,
John.
_______________________
"Sister" is Jane's daughter Phebe.

Aliwal North

April 29th, 1879

My dear Mother & Sister

We stayed at Cape Town 4 or 5 days while the vessel was discharging its cargo. It contains some very fine buildings, but has quite an eastern appearance. We were very much pleased with the Botanical gardens. One day we went by train to Wynburg, a place about 8 miles distant, the road to which was in some places very pretty.

On Friday afternoon about 4-½ we steamed out of the docks. The Asiatic, of the Union line, preceded us about a quarter of an hour, and as we left the harbour we could see her a mile or two before us pitching, her keel sometimes almost lifted out of the water. Soon we also began to pitch and roll beautifully; the captain passing us on deck said "this is a specimen of Cape seas, we shall cut some capers when we get round this point". Dinner came on, when several ladies and gentlemen did not appear, and of those who did come one after another disappeared until there was not one left of the ladies but a German girl and Ellie, and only two or three gentlemen of whom I was one. Some who had stood out up to the Cape succumbed that evening.

Before we reached Port Elizabeth the sea went down, and we entered Algoa Bay on a fine Sunday morning. All the passengers went on shore and we took up our abode at the Palmerston hotel. I went to the Wesleyan chapel in the evening, a Scotch minister preached.

On Tuesday morning at 6 o'clock we started by rail for Atherstone, about 90 miles from Port Elizabeth, and from there to Graham's Town by coach. Next morning we started on our journey by Cobb's coach, travelling about 60 miles and arriving at Beaufort after dark. Next morning we had to be up by 4 o'clock, and started at 5, and travelled until half-past 9 at night. We were bumped and jolted over rough roads, had to ford several rivers, and about 3 hours of this journey was in the dark, the drivers having to pick their way. I was in fear many a time that we were going over, and nothing but the care and skill of our black drivers could have landed us in safety. Ellie and the children were terribly knocked up with those 80 miles in one day.

Part of the way, that over the Katberg, was full of magnificent scenery. For about 12 miles we ascended the mountain, in some places there was above us lofty heights, and below a precipice going sheer down several hundred feet. The road zig-zagged around the side of the mountains. the kloofs on the mountainside were full of trees, and at the foot of the mountain beautiful orange gardens. But as soon as we crossed the top the scene changed. The country was still mountainous, but scarcely a tree was to be seen for scores of miles, in fact all the way to Aliwal.

We reached Aliwal on Saturday morning about 11 o'clock. Mr. Smith left by the coach at 1 P.M., so that I had not much time to see him. I preached twice yesterday to respectable, though not large congregations, but I had a B.A. present, two members of the Colonial legislature, and many other respectable people. I have to preach twice every Sunday to this one congregation, so that a person should have some resources to keep on his legs for a good many years here. It is a mistake to suppose anyone will do for these Colonial towns. The English people are in general intelligent and educated.

I had a wedding of two coloured people this morning. The couple were accompanied by a large number of natives. The bridegroom who was jet black in colour was attired in black coat and pantaloons, white waistcoat and flower in button hole. The bride was dressed in white. I was pleased with the decorum which was manifested. Last night I met the Band of Hope in the English chapel. There were a few bright, intelligent young folks there. I shall meet another in the Native chapel on Thursday night.

Aliwal is a pretty place. The houses, with the exception of our house, are of one story, white-washed, with trees surrounding them. Our house is very large; there are about 10 rooms, the most of them as large as the rooms in the Spennymoor house, but far loftier. A wing of it, consisting of three rooms is, however, occupied by the native teacher and his wife. It stands in the midst of a large garden, containing all kinds of fruit trees, but there are no fruits and vegetables now. We shall have to wait for them several months. The time for sowing is just at hand. To the left of the manse is the English church, a sort of Gothic building capable of seating 250 people, with a vestry behind. About 200 yards to the back of the house is the Native school, which also serves for chapel. It will seat 250. It has a play-ground about an acre in extent, surrounded by a four feet wall.

The English church is very small, as far as membership is concerned. There has been no class-meeting for some time, and only about 7 sit down to the monthly sacrament. Many of our best supporters are not members of the church. I observed that at both the cols. on Sunday, (and there is a col. every service) there was not a copper on the plate, and apparently far more shillings than sixpences. My hope is in the young people growing up around us. The Native cause is far the better of the two; we have above a hundred members. Several of them ...

[missing 4 pages]

... and took out C. Kingsley's life, and his "Westward Ho"! I am glad to have such a good library so near to my house. We shall be glad, however, to have a Chronicle, Primitive, and Christian World, whenever you or our friends can send them.

Until I get settled this letter to you must suffice for my North Shield friends, and for Cuthbert, Phebe, and Stephen. I have been often thinking about home, and especially of Mr. Warner[?] services, and the Dt. meeting which is commencing this week. Before you receive this, Conference will have commenced its sittings. Our remembrances to Mr. & Mrs. Lewins, Mr. & Mrs. Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Welford, Mr. Henderson, Mr. & Mrs. Brown, Mr. & Mrs. Dodds, Mr. & Mrs. Hopper, T. Jewells and all our class; but I must stop, or I would fill my sheet with names. But do not forget Mr. Philipstein, and Ellen. We have them all in our hearts.

With warmest love to Stephen & wife, Cuth & family, Phebe, my uncle & family, and yourselves.
I remain your affte. Son & brother
John
______________________
"Sister" is Jane's daughter Annie

Aliwal North
S. Africa

June 20. 1879

My dear Mother,

We are still in good health and spirits. We have had some very cold weather since I wrote last, but we have kept pretty free from cold. When the sun is shining it is warm in the sun, but in the shade & in the evenings it is sometimes bitterly cold. We are above 4000 feet above the level of the sea, or at an altitude of more than a hundred feet above the level of Ben Nevis. It is this elevation that makes it so cold in winter. But it is healthy. We are beginning to prepare for planting & sowing in the garden, and I have today set a man to work to dig the whole of the garden. We have got a new girl; the mother of the girl we had wanted to have more wages than we thought she was worth, so we let her go, and have got an older girl, a Basuto, who knows more about house work, who is tidy in her habits, and is very kind to the children. John goes out upon her back, sitting in her shawl, in which he is snug & warm. John, by the way, has begun to walk. He is cautious, but he can go short distances by himself. He is growing a fine boy. Kate is very healthy. Annie, the girl, put her a handkerchief on in form of a turban, such as the Basutoe girls wear, and she was running about with it on as large as life. She has got off 4 or 5 Dutch words, which she airs frequently in talking to the servants.

We had the first letter which has come to us direct from Australia. It was posted on the 17th April, so I cannot understand why it has been so late in arriving. We got those which you sent. Mr. & Mrs. Parker, and children are all doing well, except that the baby has had sore eyes.

Ellie and I were taken out by one of our members for a row on the Orange River last Friday. We enjoyed it very much. Ellie was hearing the Kennedy family one evening. They were singing the old Scotch songs in the Public Library. It was quite a treat. I stayed at home to mind the children. We have not many concerts here, so they are very much appreciated when there are any.

Our members are very kind. As we have nothing in our garden, some of our people have sent us cabbages, turnips, potatoes, &c. We got a very nice pailful of large potatoes sent today. Our congregations are very good, and the collections increase in amount. We have one at every service. The collection yesterday morning was £ 1 - 19 - 0. This was not bad for about 40 people. This is better than Saville St. Of course our people make more money. We also report in the English church an increase of 9 members.

I have sent two letters to the Primitive. I wonder whether they have appeared yet. I get the Primitive regularly, except that the copy for May. 15th did not come. If you can get it without any trouble, I would be glad if you would send it. The Xtian World comes all right. I wrote to Stephen last week. My next letter will be to Cuthbert. Ellie wrote to Mrs. Brown last week. Kate is very anxious I should say something about her as she does not wish to be forgotten. I hope Annie is improving, and that the fine weather will set her up again. She must not hurry about taking a place. By the time you get this you will have gone to your new lodgings. I hope you will get a comfortable place. I should be glad if it were Mrs. Barnsley's. Remember me to all our North Shields friends.

With warmest love to you & Annie, in which Ellie & all join.
I am your afft Son,
John

[P.S.] I will write a little next time, I have been writing to Australia today.

Aliwal North

Aug 4th 1879

My dear Mother & Sister,

I am wondering as I begin this letter where you are staying and how you are engaged. We have had a letter from Robt. Cook, who said he had been to see you, and that Annie was then improving. I trust by this time she is getting all right again. As we get the Primitive weekly we have had in the two last numbers full reports of Conference, also from Mr. Lewins Leeds papers, and the Weekly Chronicle from, I think, Mr. Brown, which were a treat to us. We get the "Xtian World" also regularly from you.

The weather is now very fine, and I am beginning to plant the garden. We have got a few rows of peas in, and we must have nearly the whole of the seed in this month. The weather is getting warmer, and we shall have spring here very soon. The country will look much more beautiful then. I wish we had plenty of fruit and vegetables for our table. We have just got in a small bag of coals, the first we have had, to mix with the wood. The coal sells at the rate of £5 per ton, and yet it is as cheap as wood. During the cold weather we have had to burn a great deal of fuel, but when the weather gets warmer we shall only use it to cook with.

We have been here a little over 14 weeks, and I have preached 30 sermons in our chapel, so at that rate it will take a great many for 6 years. But I have a good deal of time for preparation during the week. I also get a good deal of reading done. We are all at present in excellent health.

John is very strong and ruddy, and runs about all over. The other day he disappeared, and the servant went out to seek him, and found him outside the gate throwing stones into the small stream that runs by. He is a very jolly, good tempered fellow, if only we keep a particular place well supplied.

Kate is very ruddy, and has a splendid appetite. She has picked up several little companions, with whom she spends the whole day, except meal-times outside. Miss Richards, who stays with us, bought her a most beautiful doll, and Miss Leonard, a neighbour, made for it a handsome dress. Kate is very proud of it. She goes to the Sunday School, and her teacher, a very good young girl, tells her scripture stories, which Kate can tell almost pit-pat when she comes home.

Ellie was at an Amateur Concert in the court house the other night, at which the Band played a good many pieces, and glees and solos were sung by ladies & gentlemen. The pianist, Mrs. Graham, is a magnificent player. Ellie was very much pleased with the performance of the singers and musicians.

Love to you & Annie
From yours as ever
John
______________________
"Sister" is Jane's daughter Annie

Aliwal North,

October 13th, 1879

My dear Mother,

We had our annual Tea meeting last week. It was a very successful affair. You will see a report of it in the Primitive. Ellie gave a table, which was very rich and amply-provided, but at the second sitting the boys of Aliwal swooped down upon it and the other tables, and swept the deck completely, so that neither Ellie nor I got anything. I will quote from a letter which Ellie is writing to her sister, which she has left open on the table. "I had a busy time last week. We had our Tea meeting. I made a quantity of beautiful cakes - spice loaf, sponge cake, Seed cake, Buns, Tarts, concealed cake, biscuits, bread and butter, sweets, preserved ginger. I had six bouquets, and all the plates had pink and white paper mats on, so my table looked very pretty indeed. Miss Leonard helped me both to make and attend the table." This is a very interesting quotation.

We have just let the work for the reconstruction of our house. We are going to remove the upper story, and build wings on each side, making it one story throughout. Instead of the upstairs rooms we shall have on the south side two bed-rooms 15ft by 16 each, and on the other side a bed-room 15ft by 14ft, and another room 15 x 18ft, making us 7 large rooms and a kitchen. The teacher has also a kitchen & two rooms at the back. The alterations will cost over £400.

We had an interesting letter from Cuthbert last week. I am sorry to hear from him that Annie is not strong again yet. When you get your doctor's bill will you send it to me, and we shall see what we can do towards it. Let us have full information as to your affairs, for we wish you to be as comfortable as our means will allow.

You have had, I understand, a miserable summer. It will have been very unfavourable for Annie. I am glad we have escaped it. I am afraid we shall take badly with the climate of England after this fine climate. But there are many things in England which make up for the lack of fine weather, which we have not here.

Kate and John are in good health and very happy. Yesterday, Annie, our servant, went off home, and just after I missed John, and going out of the gate, I saw him a good way up the road to the native location, running after the servant as fast as his legs could carry him. Kate was at the tea-meeting, and stayed up till ten o'clock. On Sunday evening Ellie got to chapel for the first time in an evening. The service does not commence now until 7 ½ clock. John went to sleep and was put to bed, and his Ma took Kate with her to chapel. It was a treat for her to get.

The ladies of the congregation meet at our house on Wednesday to make arrangements for getting up a Christmas Tree. After that is over I hope to get them engaged with a Bazaar . We need a great deal of money, and I must keep the ladies at work. They are my best helpers.

How are the ladies at Shields getting on with their preparations for their Christmas Bazaar? I hope they are working with a hearty good will. Mrs. Brown will be in the thick of the preparation. By the way, Ellie says I have to say that Mrs. Brown's letter has not come to hand yet. We hope it is on the way.

We were sorry to hear of the death of Mr. Smith of York. We shall find many changes if we are spared to come back again. Have you heard anything of Stephen? Mr. Parker says he wrote to him about going to Australia, offering to help him when he arrived if he went out.

With love to Mr. & Mrs. Brown, Annie, and yourself, and all our North Shields friends.

I am your affte. Son
John

Aliwal North.

Dec. 8th. 1879.

My dear Mother and Sister,

Your letter arrived last week. I was glad to hear Annie felt some benefit from her visit to Middleton-over-Row[?]. She must exercise great care and keep as cheerful as possible during the cold winter months. When this letter arrives it will be Christmas and New Year with you. Ellie and I wish you and Mr. & Mrs. Brown, and all the North Shields friends a Merrie Christmas and a Happy New Year.

As for us we can hardly realise that Christmas is coming. We are close to our Midsummer. The sunshine is very hot, and you could not walk any distance in it, but the heat is seldom oppressive. Generally in the shade, except when the hot winds blow, it is very pleasant. And then we have cool evenings, when the air is indeed quite sharp and bracing. We have had about three months drought from which the country is beginning to suffer. The river water is like puddle and nearly all the tanks are getting dry. We have still three feet of water in our underground tank, cool and pleasant, but we are besieged with applications for water, and we scarcely can refuse, though I am beginning to restrict all comers to a bucket a day. We long for rain to refresh the gardens and replenish the tanks. We have got a little benefit from our garden in peas, beans, carrots and parsnips. Everything else in vegetables has failed. We have had for some time green peas or beans almost every day either from the garden or market. If we had rain we would plant the whole garden afresh for the autumn crop which is always the best and most abundant.

I have sometimes told you how dear wood is for fuel. Well, we are trying now another kind of fuel called Mist. But, you say, what is Mist? Cow or sheep dung, caked and dry, which is brought to the market by the farmers. We paid £1-19-6 for a load of sheep mist. It is in cakes and makes a nice fire for cooking. My wife likes it very much, and is sorry we did not get any sooner. It might have saved us several pounds. You will turn up your nose at the idea of it, but it is simply an English prejudice. People who come here get those prejudices knocked out of them, and take kindly to many things which they would think repulsive at home.

Ellie says I have to tell you that we have had three apple cakes from our garden. We have very few apples and they are not full grown, but to prevent the boys stealing them we are using them as they are. We have an abundance of grapes on our vines which will be ripe in January.

I have also to say that Ellie has got herself furnished with eight new teeth - they fit her well. They were put in by a dentist, from Port Elizabeth, who is staying for a short time in Aliwal. They cost £12-12-0, with some other repairs I paid the dentist £13-17-0. Everything costs a great deal here.

I don't know whether these little domestic items will interest you, but we have not much besides to report to you. We are all in good health. Kate and John Harrison are first-rate. You should see John stamping about with a pair of strong boots on with brass at the toes. He sits up with us to dinner and tea, and feeds himself like a man. Kate is very useful for going errands to any part of the town. So far the climate suits them well. John is not, I think, as stout as he was, but he is in healthy condition. As to the price of things I forgot to say that I got a pair of boots soled and heeled last week, which cost me nine shillings, nearly three times as much as at home.

We have got the roof on our house again, and the masons have the wings, which we are building, nearly ready for the roof. I wish we had the work done, as we are very much limited for room at present. We have a Christmas tree shortly, for the benefit of our chapel. The ladies have not been working very long, but we may raise £20 or so.

I hope our Shields people may have a successful Christmas Tree this year. I am glad Miss Robson, or Mrs. Robson (which is it?) did so well with the book for the missions. It was, considering the depression of trade, very good. How are Mr. Howchin and Mr. Lewins getting on? I like to hear of their doings. Remember us to them both and to their wives.

I am going on steadily with my church work, making a little progress. We have difficulty in getting the people to church these summer evenings. We do not commence service till half past seven, and yet a great many do not get tea over in time to come. I have been at the native church the last two Sunday afternoons, the place is crowded. We have 47 members & 10 on trial. I give tickets to them personally, and take their contributions. We had sacrament yesterday in both churches - at the English 11 - at the natives about 80 were present.

As our servant was sick Ellie was never out. She has been, except a short time this morning, away three days. But our boy can wash up dishes, and get breakfast ready as well as the girl. Yesterday morning we had two boys in the kitchen working away with their sleeves up. John Andries[?] cleaning out the grate and Jim Kobi[?] washing the dishes. There are some who keep a boy for house work, and no girls, were it not for taking out the children our boy would do as well as the girl.

I had a letter the other day from a Miss Forster, who is staying at present in King William's Town, with Miss Martindale. They are both from Stanhope. Miss Forster is the daughter of the late John Forster of Stanhope. She wants a place as a teacher in a school, and was enquiring if I knew of an opening. Miss Martindale is Lady Principal of a Collegiate Girls School in King William's Town, British Kaffaria. Miss F. had been in Natal for three months but the climate did not suit her health. Her sister is with her. You would know something about the Martindales. One of them was a teacher at Wearhead when I was at home. I have written to Joseph Featherstone of Wearhead.

We have not had a letter from our friends in Australia for nine weeks. It is such a roundabout way for letters to get to us that we seem almost cut off from them now, though we are 7000 miles nearer to them. They will get our letters regularly. The reason is, the Australian Mails go by the Cape and return by the Suez Canal. Unless they catch a sailing vessel the letters must go round by England to us.

I was at Jamestown, a place 30 miles from us, the other week. I had a very pleasant ride in a Cape Cart, which goes very quickly. I intend to go there once a month. We have very few members at the place, but ours is the only place of worship. They guarantee £40 towards my support if I will go once a month.

Give our kind remembrances to Mr. & Mrs. Brown, and all friends, and let us hear from you soon.

Love to you and Annie from all -
Yours as ever.
John

[P.S.] do write frequently: you have no idea what a pleasure it is to hear from you.

[P.P.S.] Tell us in your next, what Cuthbert's baby's name is, and give them our congratulations.
______________________
"Sister" is Jane's daughter Annie

Aliwal North.

Dec. 25th, 1879.
Christmas Day.

My dear Brother,

I sit down to wish you and yours a Merrie Christmas and a Happy New Year. It is strange to be spending Christmas at Midsummer, with an almost vertical sun over our heads. Give me the good old Christmas season in England, however, with frost and snow, tea-meetings in connection with the chapels, and pleasant social gatherings.

And yet we have the venal accompaniments of Christmas. In the morning just after midnight our native singers awoke us up. They sang Sesuto hymns, but some of the tunes were familiar. A good deal of their singing is in parts, as they used to sing in Weardale, the air, the tenor, and bass coming in in succession. My wife and I got up and gave them a trifle, wishing them a Happy Christmas. After they had gone all round the town they finished up by coming to our house at 4 ½ o'clock as the day was breaking and giving us nearly their whole budget of tunes.

After they left I arose and went to the Orange River, and had my bathe and swim at 5 ½ o'clock. The air was cool and exhilarating and the water so deliciously warm that it was a pleasure to splash about. This morning bathe is my greatest luxury here, and more so as I can both swim and float.

There has been also some speciality in our fare today, as in England; but you cannot get roast lamb and mint sauce, with new potatoes, beans, and peas, from your own garden in Christmas. Of course you can get the inevitable plum pudding. But you cannot, as we have done, go into the garden and pull ripe figs, and have them stewed for a relish at tea. Except some apricots which I got at the market this is the only fruit we have had yet.

Santa Klaus paid Kate and John a visit during [the] night. Their stockings were stuffed with raisins, chocolate, dried figs, and sweetmeats, and he had brought both of them a handsome toy. Kate, to whom I have read this, says I have to tell you he brought her a pretty shop, and Miss Richards brought her a doll from the Xmas tree. The children were very much delighted.

We have had a drought for more than three months. Some times the clouds gather and a slight shower descends, and then it clears up again. The farms and gardens need rain very much. It is almost unintermittent sunshine by day, so that one feels it a relief when the clouds gather, and refreshed when a slight shower falls. We are in Midsummer, and yet feel no special inconvenience from the heat. The sunshine is scorching, but it is cooler in our house than I have often felt the atmosphere in England. For one thing there being no sultriness in the air there is no difficulty in breathing. And then the nights are always cool, sometimes quite sharp. Of course if you had to work in the sun you would feel the heat very intense. I am told we shall have it very little hotter. If so it is easy enough to bear. But they say people fresh from England bear the heat better than those who have been here a few years. We shall feel it, they say, more next year.

John has sore eyes, which are very prevalent just now. I think it must arise from the glare of the sun, and the dryness of the atmosphere. Mr. Parker's children have had sore eyes since they went to Australia. John is, however, going to get easily through.

I wrote to Stephen last week, although I have not received an answer to my first letter. Mr. Parker, at his request through me, had nominated him and his wife for assisted passages, and also instructed my brother-in-law, Robert Cook, to advance him, if agreeable, money from some of Mr. Parker's accounts. Mr. Parker said he had assisted many to find work, but he would take a special interest in Stephen. And as the form required him to find Stephen employment, if necessary, there was nothing to fear in respect to employment. So I wrote encouraging Stephen to go. I wonder what his intentions are. I think he would do better in Australia than in Weardale. At any rate, he could not do worse.

Jany. 6th 1880

I commenced this letter in 1879, but must conclude it in 1880. Since I wrote I have been on a journey to Jamestown, 30 miles distant. I went out by coach - fare £2, and was sent back in a conveyance belonging to one of our members, driven by a black boy. We had two splendid horses, and came along at a splendid rate. after we had travelled about 2 ½ hours, we "outspanned" for an hour. It was about 4 ½ P.M. I lay down on the grass for a snooze, but then came a fearfully cold wind and dust, followed by rain. I got under cover of the cart tent, wrapped a rug about me to try to keep the heat in, and all the way home, though I had the rug about me, I was starved, and this was in Midsummer.

Yesterday, however, as I was going to the native chapel the wind came from the North West as from an oven, but as the heat is dry I did not feel at all distressed by it. We are subject here to sudden atmospheric changes. Sometimes in winter the cold at nights seemed to cut through the bed clothes, however many you had on. If your idea is that it is always a "wasting process" here, you must dismiss it, as you would feel at times a "freezing process" if you were here. And yet we have splendid health.

It has not been a good spring for the gardens. Our cabbage, cauliflowers, turnips, and radishes were destroyed by worms. We have had peas, beans, carrots, parsnips, and potatoes. The only fruit we have had ripe yet are the figs, which are very nice. I am beginning to put in seed for the autumn crop, which I hope will be abundant. I have a black boy who does the most of the work in the garden.

The telegraph to Africa from England is completed, and we had telegrams before the year was out of the railway disaster in Scotland, and the wreck of the Boronssa[?]. I read the English papers regularly. I have been delighted with the account of Mr. Gladstone's tour in Scotland. I hope that at the coming election Beaconsfield and Co. will be turned adrift.

I may mention that I sometimes go to market in the mornings. What is brought to the market is sold by auction. I have bought apples, apricots, eggs, &c. The gentlemen only go to market.

My wife and I congratulate [you] on the birth of another daughter, and trust she and her Ma are doing well. Our love to all - Mrs. W., the children, and yourself, and also Mr & Mrs Potts & family, and to Mr & Mrs. Watson & family.

I am yours as ever
John Watson
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Letter to brother Cuthbert.